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Ratna Chuli Climb: Into Nepal’s Hidden Ice

Ratna Chuli is one of the well-known peaks located on the border of Nepal and Tibet. It is precisely present in the remote region of Nar Phu, making it hardly accessible.

ratna chuli climb takes place at 7128m

Standing above 7000m, this particular peak isn’t for everyone to climb. Ratna Chuli climb requires major dedication and skill to complete it with ease. To the readers unaware, this particular peak is located in the Manang district.

Ratna Chuli Climb Overview

Located in the Phu village of the Tibetan region, this particular peak is situated at an altitude of 7128m. Trekkers will get to the top through the normal route.

Talking about the difficulty of the trek, it falls in the moderate to hard peak climbing list. Located in the Manang region, climbers will find plenty of peaks like Lamjung, Kanguru, and Dhaulagiri during the climb.

Being in the remote region, the major attraction is the wilderness and the less-explored feature of this climb. Ratna Chuli, being present to the north of the  Annapurna and Manaslu region, is the major focus for trekkers.

Highlights of Ratna Chuli Climb

  • Witness the magnificent Tibetan plateaus and the likes of Phugaon, Kyang, etc
  • Chance to view mountains like Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Manaslu, Tibetian plateau
  • Spend more than 3 weeks in the remote part of Manang
  • Be part of the cultural richness and history of the Nar Phu valley

Who Made The First Climb to Ratna Chuli?

Even though Ratna Chuli climb isn’t the most famous climb of Nepal, the first ascend has been made in the 19th century. Located in the Manang region, this particular peak has a rich history that sits behind it.

For the very first time, a team from Japan climbed this peak. Students typically from Shinshu University and the Nepalese Police Mountaineering Foundation made it to the top.

They tried the west ridge for the climb and successfully made it. Interestingly, the climb was made in October 1996 by 3 different teams.

On 14th, 16th, and 18th October, the attempt to reach the top was made, and it was massively successful. All three groups reached the top, and the first ascent attempt was complete.

Best Time to Perform Ratna Chuli Climb

A lot of the trekkers tend to ask The Trek Nepal as to what the right time is for the Ratna Chuli climb. Well, due to the lack of proper information about the place, it is harder to provide the fixed information.

But based on the information from The Trek Nepal, autumn and late spring are the right times. You will have an opportunity to witness the beautiful mountains.

The air remains crisp with the day temperature hovering around 15-20 degrees. Such weather is perfect for long hours of trekking for almost a month.

Permits Required For Ratna Chuli Climb

Permits are the key when you are thinking about trekking or peak climbing at the remote region. Having said that, Ratna Chuli Climb also demands the right permits.

All of these permits can be easily available at the Tourism Board or also the local municipality. However, The Trek Nepal also arranges all of these permits when needed.

For solo travellers, the permits needed for Ratna Chuli climb are:

  • Ratna Chuli Expedition Permit
  • Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit
  • Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) Card

Can Ratna Chuli be climbed solo?

Based on the recent rules and regulations made by Nepal Tourism Board, solo trekking and climbing to any peak isn’t allowed for trekkers. You will need to have a licensed guide or a trekking agency that can make the journey possible.

In the past, though, you could have tried the solo climbs. Even though Ratna Chuli climb takes place above 7000m, the routes are clearly defined, which doesn’t make it difficult to complete the trek.

But the challenges for Ratna Chuli to climb are massive. You will have to accomodate with the technical 60-degree climb at times. Along with that, the location and access of Ratna Chuli are in the most remote part of Nepal.

You will have the risks of altitude sickness along with the unpredictable weather changes. All of this technically makes your experience much harder. Therefore, The Trek Nepal doesn’t suggest you solo trek on this journey at all.

Cost of Ratna Chuli Climb

Being one of the remotest and rarely done climbs in Nepal, the actual cost of the Ratna Chuli climb is hard to tell. On average, though, you will have to spend around $3500 per person to complete the climb.

This is for the overall expense and the time you spend with The Trek Nepal team. Based on the quality of service you ask for, along with the private features, the cost increases most of the time.

ratna chuliis situated at the border of Nepal and Tibet

Under the cost breakdown, you will be covered for the permit fees, package cost, and other additional costs like porters, cooks, etc.

Besides the mentioned cost, the climbers will have to pay for the electricity, charging, along with the hot showers they take at the teahouses. Most of the time, the cost covers the lodging, fooding along with the permit costs, etc.

Any climbers who are willing to spend money on tips and personal expenses will have to manage the funds. The Trek Nepal, on the other hand, also provides a customized package based on the quality of service and outcome. All in all, the quality of service and the cost are directly related to each other.

Alternative Treks to Ratna Chuli Climb

Not all the climbers and trekkers will be interested in the Ratna Chuli climb. In case you aren’t interested in any of these climbs, The Trek Nepal has a variety of other options for you.

Located in the Manang region, the trekking and peak climbing options are plentiful. Alternative treks to Ratna Chuli climb include:

  • Mera Peak
  • Chulu West Peak
  • Lobuche East
  • Himlung Himal etc

Why Choose The Trek Nepal for Ratna Chuli Climb?

If you have come this far, you would be interested to know what is so special about the Trek Nepal. Well, we have been doing the trekking duties for more than a decade now.

All of our trekking options have been all around the country. Not only that, but The Trek Nepal also does bookings for India and Bhutan. This provides the trekkers and explorers more options.

Out of all the features, what makes us special is our ability to adapt. We have the skillset to customise our package for our clients. Based on your budget, time, interests, and abilities, we create a package that makes trekking with us much easier.

Detailed Itinerary About Ratna Chuli Climb

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, the starting point of your Ratna Chuli Climb, you will be welcomed by our team and transferred to your hotel.

After check-in and some rest, you will meet the expedition team for an initial briefing covering the journey ahead. This session is important for understanding logistics, permits, and expectations for the climb.

In the evening, you can relax or take a short walk around the lively streets of Thamel, experiencing the vibrant atmosphere of Nepal’s capital. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 02: Kathmandu – Preparation and Documentation

This day is dedicated to final preparations for the Ratna Chuli Climb. You will complete all necessary documentation, including permits for the restricted Nar-Phu Valley and the climbing permit for Ratna Chuli.

There will be time for detailed gear checks and last-minute shopping in Thamel, known for its trekking stores. If time allows, you may visit nearby cultural landmarks such as Swayambhunath or Boudhanath.

This preparation day ensures you are fully equipped for the remote Himalayan journey. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (823m)

After breakfast, you begin a scenic drive along the Prithvi Highway, following the Trishuli River and later the Marshyangdi River.

The journey passes through terraced hills, rural settlements, and lush valleys, offering a gradual transition from city life to the countryside. After approximately six hours, you reach Besisahar, a key gateway to the Annapurna region. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 04: Drive from Besisahar to Koto (2,610m)

Today’s journey continues by jeep along a rugged mountain road following the Marsyangdi River. The route passes through villages such as Dharapani and Jagat, along with pine forests, waterfalls, and dramatic cliffs.

As you gain altitude, the air becomes cooler and the landscape more alpine. By afternoon, you arrive at Koto, a small village marking the entrance to the Nar-Phu Valley. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 05: Trek from Koto to Meta (3,560m)

The trek officially begins as you enter the restricted Nar-Phu region. The trail follows the Nar Khola through dense pine forests and narrow gorges, crossing suspension bridges and steep rocky paths. As you climb higher, the terrain becomes drier and more rugged. After around seven hours, you reach Meta, a high plateau offering wide views of the surrounding mountains. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 06: Trek from Meta to Kyang (3,820m)

Today’s trail traverses high alpine terrain with dramatic landscapes. You pass ancient chortens, narrow trails carved into cliffs, and deep canyons below. Along the way, you can catch views of Annapurna II and Himlung Himal. After about five hours of trekking, you arrive at Kyang, a small settlement surrounded by striking rock formations. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 07: Trek from Kyang to Phu Gaun (4,080m)

The trail continues deeper into the remote Phu Valley. Walking along arid terrain and glacial streams, you gradually reach Phu Gaun, a traditional Tibetan-style village. This settlement is rich in culture, with stone houses, prayer walls, and monasteries such as Tashi Lakhang. The village offers a unique cultural experience, making it a highlight of the Ratna Chuli Climb approach. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 08: Acclimatization Day in Phu Gaun (4,080m)

A rest day is essential for acclimatization before moving higher. You may hike to Tashi Lakhang Monastery or nearby viewpoints for panoramic views of the Himalayas. Exploring the village provides insight into the traditional lifestyle of the local community. This gradual adaptation is crucial for a safe and successful Ratna Chuli Climb. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 09: Trek from Phu Gaun to Ratna Chuli Base Camp (4,842m)

Leaving Phu Gaun, the trail ascends through rocky terrain, moraine ridges, and glacial sections. The environment becomes increasingly remote and alpine. After 6 to 7 hours of trekking, you reach Ratna Chuli Base Camp, set in a sheltered area beneath the mountain. This marks the beginning of the climbing phase of your Ratna Chuli Climb expedition. Overnight in a tent.

Day 10–24: Climbing Period for Ratna Chuli (7,128m)

Over the next 15 days, you focus entirely on the ascent of Ratna Chuli. This phase includes acclimatization rotations, establishing higher camps, and transporting gear across glaciers and snowfields. Camps are typically set at different elevations, including Camp I and Camp II, before a final high camp is established.

The climb involves snow slopes, crevassed glaciers, and mixed terrain of ice and rock. Weather conditions play a critical role, and flexibility is essential.

The summit push is carefully timed, requiring endurance, technical skill, and teamwork. Successful ascent and safe descent define the core achievement of the Ratna Chuli Climb. All nights are spent in tented camps at high altitude.

Day 25: Descent from Base Camp to Phu Gaun (4,080m)

After completing the climb and clearing the base camp, you begin the descent back to Phu Gaun. The return trek follows the same rugged terrain, with moraine fields and rocky trails leading back into the valley. The comfort of the village and lodge accommodation is a welcome change after an extended time in tents. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 26: Trek from Phu Gaun to Meta (3,560m)

Retracing your route, you trek back through Kyang and along familiar high trails. The descent offers a different perspective of the dramatic landscapes you passed earlier. After about five hours, you reach Meta, where you rest for the night. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 27: Trek from Meta to Koto (2,610m)

Continuing downward, the trail leads through forests, narrow gorges, and along the Nar Khola. Passing waterfalls and rocky cliffs, you eventually return to Koto, marking the end of the restricted region. The lower altitude brings warmer temperatures and a more comfortable environment. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 28: Drive from Koto to Besisahar (823m)

A jeep ride takes you back along the Marsyangdi Valley, passing through Dharapani and other familiar villages. The journey descends into greener landscapes, with rivers, terraced fields, and forests reappearing. After several hours, you arrive at Besisahar for an overnight stay.

Day 29: Drive from Besisahar to Kathmandu (1,400m)

After breakfast, you begin the return drive to Kathmandu. The route follows river valleys and rural landscapes, gradually bringing you back to the capital. Upon arrival, you transfer to your hotel and have time to relax after completing the Ratna Chuli Climb expedition. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 30: Free Day in Kathmandu and Farewell Dinner

This day is kept free for rest or optional sightseeing. You may explore cultural sites such as Swayambhunath or Boudhanath, or simply enjoy the city. In the evening, a farewell dinner is organized to celebrate the successful completion of your Ratna Chuli Climb, featuring traditional Nepali cuisine and cultural performances. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 31: Final Departure

Your Ratna Chuli Climb journey concludes today. You will be transferred to the airport for your departure. As you leave Nepal, you carry unforgettable memories of remote landscapes, cultural encounters, and the achievement of climbing Ratna Chuli.